Italian weddings and cemeteries!

Yet another day of complete beauty and challenge. We hiked up to the cemetery in our village of Vernazza. It looks out to the sea at the very top of our village. In America we would build something else….maybe a restaurant or a condo, but they chose a cemetery and it is amazing.

But I am skipping ahead a bit. Before this, earlier in the day, we were graced with an Italian wedding. As we are walking the streets of Vernazza this morning, we see Gulianno the owner of our b&b. We chat with him for a moment and he explains that a wedding will be going on in the church this very morning and soon they will ring all the bell’s of the church to signify that a new couple is wed. Then the couple will come to a near by balcony and throw candy to all the people below. Gulianno tells us that he must go now to get a good place to catch the candy. His daughter Sophia is tugging at him saying “Guli…Guli…andiamo, andiamo” This is her pet name for her father and it sounds a bit like she is saying “Julie…Julie” and she is telling him to “come on, come on” She is ready to find her prime real estate for catching the candy. It is a grand celebration, with these fantastic popper things that as best as I can tell, you pull the string and confetti flies out with a wonderful loud pop. We have a great video and the pic’s that Linda took were voted the best in our nightly viewing party.
So this was a very poignant day. We saw in the beginning of the day the birth of life between two people and at the end of the day the Italian cemetery. It was interesting on the way to the cemetery we went a back way, it was obvious that many of the local’s lived in this part of the village and on one of the alley ways there is this very frail woman sitting in a chair talking with family. My imagination is going wild at this point because I know nothing….but I tell you that I believe this woman has lived her all her life….and as life slows her down she does not use these mammoth stairs quite as much and then soon she stays only on this small alley with her family and friends. And they bring her all that she needs. And then one day she will go to the place that we are walking to this very day, to be with her family and friends.

The last of Lucca and the first of Vernazza!

Next morning we got up early for a fantastic bike ride on the wall of Lucca. This was so much fun. Linda, Rachel and I rode the wall and laughed the entire way. This was a total blast that I could do again and again. I love the fact that the people of Lucca have made the wall of Lucca….something that was used to fend off the enemy, is now used for family and friends for exercise and socializing.
Ok so now we are off to the train station to get to Cinque Terre. We arrive and Rachel’s words are still hanging in the air…..”only a gentle slop with very few steps”. What a big fat liar…hahahah it was 250 huge steps with only a few gentle slops. But as we were to find out soon enough, this was only the beginning. We have walked so much, I just know I will have model legs. We took the train to Motarossa, this is one of the most modern villages of the five. Beautiful beaches and the water the color of jade or emerald’s.
The next day was up with the dawn to make our first hiking run. But run we did not do….OMG….the trail from Vernazza to Conglia was kick butt. Up, up, up we went sweating all the way. By the time we made the village we were stink ball’s. But the view’s were fantastic….(hey look mom a new word)….yes fantastic. Every picture is a postcard. The hike was 2 hours and for most of you mere mortals it would have done you in. But we were on a mission and we continued on after some water, café and muffins to all 3 of our southern villages. Cognila, Montarolla, and Riomaggore. Each village so beautiful when asked later which village was our favorite could not be answered. We had a wonderful lunch in Montarolla. Don and I had a homemade pasta with a whole lobster…..total yum. Linda a scampi pasta and Rachel fried fish. Now for all you at home. Don’t be thinking about your fried catfish, cause now you are way, way, way off the mark. Think of the lightest batter you think of….maybe a tempura, then lighten that by half and you might get a notion. Then the fish was not your catfish. There were sardines and whole baby octopus and calamari. It was fantastic…there is that word again…..

By the time we made it back to our village we got the provisions for the night….wine, bread, salami and fruit for the morning, we were way ready for showers….and trust me, so was every villager we met. After showers we got to what has become a nightly event. Sitting outside and having our wine. Download the day’s pic’s and then a bit of our bring home dinner. Then the show begins. We look at Rachel’s computer of all the pic’s of the day. And none can believe that we did this or saw that or lived through it all.

Best laid plans

Ok so was I right about your best laid plans. Olivia, Fiorenzo’s daughter and Marizzio, Anna and Fioenzo’s friend have to cancel so it is a total score. Rachel and her friend Raluca get to fill the void and come with us for a wonderful dinning experience. Fiorenzo made the most wonderful lasagna as our first course and the second a fantastic….(look mom a new word) fantastic roast beef perfectly pink in the center and cut the thinnest I have ever seen. It was a fantastic evening. Everyone was so grateful for the best meal of the trip.